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FOOD

Is food our latest obsession? Does anyone cook at home anymore? Considering these weighty questions, I’m describing briefly some New York City restaurants I’ve recently dined in.

City Winery, 25 11th Avenue (at 15th Street)The website is scary. My friend and I wanted an afternoon lunch overlooking the Hudson. Armed with hunger and ignorance we walked into the enormous building identified by the sign, City Winery. On a Tuesday afternoon we wandered by wait staff until we found the perfect spot. Over wine and a large, delicious appetizer, fiery cauliflower, we looked out the enormous glass window at the boat-filled Hudson. To the south was Little Island. The main course was surprisingly tiny and dessert, cheesecake cupcakes, was divine. After lunch we roamed through the vast rooms to a deck and took an elevator to the top floor. The view of the Hudson and all that goes on in it was wonderful.

Quality Eats West Village, 19 Greenwich Avenue My friend and I had an early supper. We each had the $45 special. My first course could have been sent over from a public school lunch counter: mountains of iceberg lettuce slathered with a rich white sauce. The second course was salmon and bog choy, delicious. Dessert was something or other like yogurt, very tasty. My pino noir was $25 a glass. Oh, well, it’s only money.

Knickerbocker, 33 University Place I dined here with a friend and we loved it. It’s an old-fashioned, discreetly modernized steak house. Perfect service from a staff that’s been there forever, lots of room between tables, wonderful food – including great seafood. Of course, it’s expensive and worth every penny. Leave an enormous tip.

Cafe Un, Deux, Trois, 123 West 44th Street I hadn’t been in this restaurant in years. If you’re going to the Belasco which is next door, it’s perfect. This is a great combination of French class and NYC sass. Food is lovely. We went to lunch and then to a matinee. Highly recommend.

Libertine, 684 Greenwich Street Pretentious nonsense. I had something called scallops and seaweed. It was slimy. Followed by sausage and mashed potatoes I could have cooked at home. Dessert? Like a fool I ordered cheese. It arrived, all four little pieces. Gaetano’s was the previous restaurant. It too had lousy food but a great atmosphere. Vintage crooners: Sinatra, Bennett, Como, laced with Rosemary Clooney.